Jeff’s recent article about Pueblo’s B & K Drive-in got me thinking about Pueblo and food–the two go hand in hand in my mind. I have lots of memories of really good eating throughout the world, but the majority involve growing up and eating in Pueblo. I want to share them here in hopes others will verify the soundness of my recall and to see if they evoke thoughts of great food from other readers who’ll remind us about Pueblo culinary experiences I’ve now forgotten.
It would be really hard to create a top-ten list if I had to rank the best eateries (or drinkeries, if that is a word) from the fifties and sixties in Pueblo. But not so hard at all to include them in one big list without a rank. So that’s my goal, starting with a couple of places closest to home.
I grew up on the corner of 4th Street and Corona, a mere stone’s throw from Ben’s Hickory Pit BBQ, the logical starting point of my walk down memory lane. There were a couple of owners while I lived there with different motifs, but similar food, if memory serves me. I can remember it being very much a cowboy place early on, complete with country and western bands to serenade you while you ate. I can’t picture the owner, but I’m sure many of you readers will remember him. I believe he sold out to the owner that was there for most of my childhood who replaced the cowboy band with a Hammond organ that I believe his wife played. This “Ben,” and I think that was indeed his name, served up the food I most recall.
He was blond or red headed, only mildly friendly, but his entrees were out of this world. He had the standard fare of all types of BBQ meats, all of which were wonderful and hickory smoked on the premises. There were large and tasty french fries or potato salad to go along with meals. But the two really unique items I recall–and I’d give anything for the recipe of–were the hickory burger and the BBQ sauce he had out in bowls or dispensers. The hickory burger was a concoction of the leftovers from all the meats I believe, probably the dark outer parts that Ben thought that people might not want on the dinner plate. He mixed these meat scraps with a delicious BBQ sauce, lopped it on a bun, and, if you had probably 15 or 20 cents, you could have one as you sat up at the counter. But the real treat was dishing out the BBQ sauce that was placed on the counter or table. It was laced with large chunks of mild, sweet onions and had a flavor unlike anything I’d had before or since. If I’d only realized that Ben’s was not a permanent fixture in Pueblo, as most restaurants aren’t, I would have begged, cajoled, or stolen his recipe when I was a kid. Like a one-of-a-kind family photo that burns up in a house fire, that recipe is gone, and I’m the sadder for the loss. As I continue you’ll realize this was only the first of many such recipes whose loss I bemoan.
Next on my walk to Carlile, and a frequent stopping point after school, or possibly at lunch for Jerry Miller and myself, was the Barrel. Shaped like a huge wooden keg, it had a counter like most of the restaurants of that era, and some tables too. The two most prominent memories are the unique and delicious hamburger and the great pinball machines. Looking back I realize it wasn’t some great, secret family recipe that made the burger so good, it was simply using consistently fresh products. The iceberg lettuce was cut quite thinly giving it a consistency and flavor that were unique, especially when combined with the tasty mustard. There might have been tomato and pickles, too, but they have faded from memory if so. It was the lettuce and mustard and the burger cut in half laying in that basket that I remember–it was great.
My first encounter with a true pinball wizard was watching Jerry Miller attack the Barrel’s machines. He had a talent that few could match. He could be gentle and methodical as he carefully guided the ball to the proper location. Or he could be a raving madman trying to keep the machine just one or two millimeters away from that fatal tilt sign showing up to prematurely end the game. On almost every day we visited he racked up free game after game, always making me envious. You’d think that watching the master at work like this I would have learned his techniques, but I never did. It would be so much fun to have a movie of us wolfing down a delicious burger and then tackling the pinball machine. But, alas, no such movie exists. I play the movie in my mind only, and surely have embellished it well beyond reality–but that’s our prerogative when we don’t make real movies.
Across the street was Logan’s Drugstore, not a place remembered for the food, but rather for the great fountain drinks. It was literally out of the old movies in its soda fountain décor: the counter, the stools you could sit on and spin around to see those behind you, and the various spigots from which the delectable drinks were made. The floats, shakes, and malts brought me there as often as I could afford it, and remain branded in my memories for their great flavor.
Moving east to the Mesa Junction there are a couple of great memories there also. First recollection: the Mesa Snack Bar, famous for its great hamburgers topped with grilled onions. This was my brother’s favorite food in the entire world. For his birthday he didn’t want cake or ice cream, he wanted a dozen Mesa Snack hamburgers, and he somehow managed to eat them all. The paper bag would come home soaked in grease, but that made them all the better for him. But I can’t blame him, I loved those burgers too, and still love to grill up onions and put them on anything to enhance the flavor. Now my burgers are veggie style, but the grilled onions make them tastier too.
Moving west now I’d stop at Sambo’s, not a restaurant, but a candy store. This was on the way to or from the movies at the Junction, so it was a favorite stopping place. My two strongest memories involved the luscious taffy that you could watch being made from the front window and the parched corn. I don’t know how Sambo did it, but that parched corn was wonderful, deliciously browned, slightly crunchy and somewhat salty, for a unique flavor. Later I discovered Corn Nuts, the major commercial parched corn, which was good, but it didn’t hold a candle to Sambo’s parched corn.
As you headed back home, somewhat satiated from a delicious burger with grilled onion and a few handfuls of parched corn, what could be better than a malt to top it off? Voila, there was the Mesa Dairy Bar (or some similar name, I don’t recall it for sure now) just a couple blocks from Sambo’s as you headed west. Their malts, banana splits, sundaes and shakes were to die for using the current vernacular. Many a trip home from the movies or walking home from Keating or Central brought us in there for a tasty treat.
Getting a driver’s license opened a whole new world of food for us. Perhaps no better than what I’ve described, but new and different tastes to complement the ones we had grown up with. The memories include many great flavors, but perhaps none better than the SOB (sausage on a bun) at the Joker Drive-in. Imagine today driving up, rolling down your window, telling the car hop to bring you an SOB and a Coors. Ah, those were the days. Was a D.U.I even around then? If so, we didn’t know it and didn’t care. The Coors was good, but the SOB was GRRRRRate. Once again here’s a recipe I would pay dearly for. Surely a franchise selling SOBs couldn’t miss, and I’d like to be the owner. The slightly tangy tomato sauce, the tasty sausage on a soft bun made for a flavor I’ve never tasted again, and apparently never will. But I can dream.
The Joker was not too far south of the B & K where Jeff and I worked, and it had some memorable food too. Mainly this was my first taste of an onion ring, and they really were good. It was hard to eat fries after digging into my first B & K rings accompanied by a delicious root beer float. My rather meager wages, to a great extent, went right back the B & K as I satisfied my constant need for onion rings and floats.
You can’t talk about food in Pueblo without mentioning the zesty Mexican fare. Our number one favorite location by far was Ramirez’s Restaurant near the CF&I. More nights than I can count would start with a few brews at some club and end up at Ramirez’s for a spicy and delicious combination plate. Or, vice versa, starting the evening at Ramirez’s and then on to some club–either way was just great. Every single item on that combination plate was as good as it gets–at least in my memory–and we couldn’t get enough. If I ate Mexican food that late at night now there aren’t enough Rolaids in Wal-Mart to get me through the night, but not a problem for someone under age 20 back then. We could eat the spiciest salsa and green chili they could provide. I also remember buying the huge commercial-sized jalapenos cans in the 70s, getting some friends together, and eating a dozen or more at a time washed down with beer in frosty mugs. It hurts to even think of that now, but it was fun then.
And I’ll end my reverie at the location where I spent many an evening, Ianne’s. Icy cold pitchers of beer, great bands and dancing, and grinders with a flavor unmatched anywhere else I’ve eaten. Not a bad place to stop for an evening’s entertainment or to stop my story.
I’m sure I’ve missed some places that will stand out in others’ minds, and maybe a few that I’ll realize I should have highlighted. But now I’m hungry and need to get out in the kitchen to try to concoct something that will be even close to the delightful tastes that Pueblo’s finest offered us who were fortunate enough to grow up there in the 50s and 60s. Who says you can’t go back home? That’s what memories are for.
Jerry Donnelly